Oceanbound and Overboard
Article By: Vice Chargée de Presse Ilona Weisman,
Photos By: Bailli William Harris, Vice Chargée de Médias Sociaux Christina Richards and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Holly Katz
For its Induction Dinner on January 10th the Albany Chaîne set sail from Norway, made port in France, Spain, Portugal, Italy and Morocco, then docked in Greece. Figuratively, that is. But it was the eclectic menu crafted by the Fort Orange Club’s Executive Chef and Maître Rôtisseur Lou Agostinello that travelled all those nautical miles.
A reception for 56 members, guests, and inductees in the club’s Arts and Crafts era West Lounge set an extravagant tone. Bailli Provincial Dr. Helen Cappuccino inducted 13 new members in the President’s Room. And in the club’s majestic dining room garlands of nautical flags crisscrossed high ceilings, a centerpiece on each table sported a flag for every country on the itinerary, and a small model boat waited at the flag of Norway. At each place setting a program proclaimed the evening “Norwegian Cruise.” Each diner also received an attractively boxed waiters corkscrew emblazoned “Albany Chaine”.
First course was the Scandinavian classic Fiskesuppe. Shades of seashore evoked by haddock and vegetables in light, creamy broth paired naturally with Tyrell’s Vineyard Semillon 2022 from New South Wales’ notable Hunter Valley. But before we could lift a spoon, mezzo-soprano Kate Morton and pianist Lara Saldanha dazzled with a performance of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg’s idyll Ein Traum. Thus, an elaborate parade unfolded: for each nation a song in the native language and afterward a quintessential dish paired with a wine from that country (excepting Norway – where we were unable to find a suitable wine or any wine for that matter).
In France Hôtel by Francis Poulenç was followed by a flawlessly seared scallop Provençale with chervil-pea purée, blood orange and golden beets. A work of art on the plate, it teamed with a work of art in the bottle—Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Ménétrières” 1er Cru Mâconnais 2022. In Spain we dined on Paella Valenciana de Conejo, the rice animated by saffron and rosemary, braised rabbit and sofrito, power-matched to a juicy red tempranillo blend Algre Valgañón Rioja 2022. Not that I wanted to wash away those flavors, but from Portugal ensued a spirited palate cleanser Sorvete de Vino do Porto e Limão – translation: port wine sorbet with Meyer lemon zest.
Nearing Gibraltar I noticed the model boat was now perched next to the flag of Morocco. “I am perplexed,” said my inner Holmes. “How can an inanimate object circumnavigate a centerpiece?” Elementary, my dear friends. The wait staff would distract us by presenting the next course, while with stealth they moved the boat to the flag of the country whose cuisine we were to savor next. It was an apt metaphor for the attention to detail that marked the evening.
In Morocco, a lamb tagine perfumed with cinnamon and cumin paired with Syrah du Morocco “Syrocco” Thalvin, Alain Graillot, Zenata 2023. While cycling between Casablanca and Rabat in 2003, the legendary winemaker happened upon Thalvin winery. Impressed by the region’s cool winds and continental climate, Graillot decided to partner with Thalvin, bringing syrah and cinsault vines from Northern Rhone to produce a syrah that paired perfectly with the mouthwatering lamb tagine.
Our Italian tour led with ‘O Sole Mio’ and proceeded to aged beef strip loin, each slice laced with pinot reduction, exquisite Meyer lemon gremolata, and accompanied by the lush La Serena Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2010. From Greece came a featherweight galaktoboureko, cinnamon and orange scented with honey syrup and citrus Chantilly cream, sending ripples of delight through the room. “Akakies” Xinomavro Sparkling Rosé Kir-Yianni 2024 punctuated with a brisk peach counterpoint.
Kate Morton and Lara Saldanha, having completed their evening’s performance with S’agapo by Spyridon Samaras, received a standing ovation for their remarkable talents. No members, newly minted or otherwise, went overboard during our sail. Though I can’t say the same for the Fort Orange Club. Chef Agostinello, Club Manager Jared Millwood, Maitre d’ Chris Cropsey and the kitchen and wait staff were simply over the top in the very best way. Bailli Harris presented Chef Lou with an oversize shadowbox Chaîne award while Vice Chancelier-Argentier Holly Katz distributed Chaîne pins to each staff member.
