Feast of the Wild
Article By: Vice Chargée de Presse Ilona Weisman
Photos By: Bailli William Harris, Vice Chargée de Médias Sociaux Christina Richards and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Holly Katz
The year was 1913. France was the undisputed culinary capital of the world, and chafing dish fare was the norm in American homes. Yet Jack Rosenstein, a transplant from Poland with a knack for shucking oysters, opened a fine dining establishment in Albany, New York that charged thirty-five cents for a cup of coffee—equal to about $12 dollars today. Jack’s Oyster House would become an Albany landmark where politicians and business leaders cut deals, and locals celebrated birthdays and anniversaries. The eponymous restaurant would survive Prohibition, the Great Depression, and the vast social and cultural changes of the 20th century. Three generations of Rosensteins ran the place, but despite its storied past Jack’s Oyster House closed during the pandemic.
Enter new owners NeoVista Equities who reopened the restaurant early this year. Capital Region foodies rejoiced, and on May 24th 65 members and guests of the Albany Bailliage beat a path to Jack’s door for Executive Chef Nick Parker’s “Feast of the Wild.”
The evening began stylishly underground in “The Vault.” Just steps from Jack’s stands a striking Beaux Arts building, formerly home to National Commercial Bank & Trust Company (and more recently KeyBank), a driving force in Albany’s financial life. Now an event space, the building retains features of its earlier occupant, notably a massive steel door six feet around in the basement, hence the name “The Vault.” The door which once guarded an inner sanctum filled with gold bars, deeds and mortgages, and priceless baubles, is now propped open and resting on the floor, its forbidding locking mechanism exposed. Ironically the chamber inside held valuables once again that night—a luxe oyster bar, where we slurped our way through a cocktail hour augmented by servers who passed gargantuan chilled shrimp and crab-topped onion tartlets. Anna Wiegandt, a talented harpist, enriched the proceedings with classical selections.
From there we walked up the block to the restaurant. Jack’s Oyster House has a well-preserved Art Deco vibe: dark-paneled wood on the walls, eye-catching black and white floors, and original bronze lighting fixtures suspended from high ceilings. Chef Parker took history to heart with a menu that harked back to the Chaîne’s origins. First decreed a guild of goose roasters in 1248 by King Louis IX of France with the directive to “cook the goose correctly,” the designation Rôtisseurs was added in 1509. At that time new statutes broadened the guild’s responsibilities from geese to cooking poultry, game birds, lamb and venison.
Accordingly, dinner at Jack’s started with rabbit rillette garnished with pickled rhubarb, the paste’s earthy flavor complemented by Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier 2024, a crisp wine with hints of melon and stone fruit. A supremely smooth foie gras terrine followed, accompanied by toasted brioche crumbs and fresh strawberry, excellent foils to the rich terrine. In the classic pairing with Carmes de Rieussec Sauternes 2016, ground black pepper, diminutive basil leaves and balsamic on the plate made everything sing.
Next Chef Parker showcased pheasant roulade stuffed with lobster meat, a spoon of fava bean purée beneath, paired with lemony tones in Chateaux La Freynelle Bordeaux Blanc Entre Deux Mers 2023. Chubby grilled quail followed suit in a piquant currant sauce that played wonderfully with cherry, dark berry and spice in the celebrated Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County 2016 & 2023. Our last bit of delicacy came in the form of Koji duck au poivre, its flavors optimized by plum and cocoa powder notes from the decorated Oregon selection Archery Summit Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2021 & 2023. Dessert was a duo of flourless chocolate cake and panna cotta topped with rhubarb gelée, Graham’s 10-Year Tawny Port the nightcap.
As if an elegant dinner was not enough, our attendees eagerly participated in a silent auction of 33 bottles of “orphaned” bottles from the Chaîne cellar, the proceeds of which to be applied toward the purchase of additional wine for future dinners.
Notes on the Cast After the customary presentation of Chaîne pins to Chef Parker, his kitchen hands, and servers, Bailli William Harris announced that the chapter’s next event on July 19th would be a return to the famously haunted Beardslee Castle in Little Falls, New York.
